The Fall Winter 2019/20 Collection takes form from different powerful inspirations.
The evocative work of the Rumanian sculptor Constantine Brancusi and his non-literal representation, his drive to depict “not the outer form but the idea, the essence of things”, the disclosing of a fundamental, often concealed, reality.
The portrait collection of women by Cynthia MacAdams, Emergence, that became a feminist statement of the ‘70s: “I looked for women who had strength and softness in their eyes and a directness in the way they dealt with their life”.
The book of the American photographer Norma Quintana, Circus: A Traveling Life, a chronicle of a ten-year collaboration with a traveling circus, an intimate portrait series of the performers off-stage, fearless and proud artists, that taught her a new sense of freedom and another way of living.
All these unique visions of life converge into the Collection and find their expression through its protagonist: a confident woman, strong and independent, aware of her fragility and imperfections, graceful as an acrobat and fearless as a trapeze artist, every fall embraced as a natural part of the journey.
Unconventional and uncatchable, she finds her balance between strength and vulnerability, passion and desire, a joyful energy that moves her forward and a nostalgic stillness, primitive and enigmatic as one of Brancusi’s carved muses.
Silhouettes are fluid and sensual, marked by oblique cuts and contrasts between feminine and masculine shapes, unexpected layerings and overlaps. Coats and dusters play a key role, reinventing the ’80s trench coats with wide volumes emphasised by broad shoulders. Sophisticated draped dresses combine silk and leather and are enlivened by delicate gatherings.
Bright patterns and graphic motifs light up the looks, recalling an abstract and ironic style of painting, matched through bold and daring combinations.
The colour palette is inspired by the painted figures of Malcom T. Liepke, the creamy tones of pink and pale skin ignited by electric hues of flashing colours, the powerful vitality that emerges from his canvas translated in dazzling pink, intense red and light petrol.
Accessories are a crucial addition to the looks: printed square toed boots and décolletés, gathered shell-bags in different sizes, whose shoulder-straps pass over the outfits, thin knee-high socks, embellished multicoloured gloves and maxi belts that highlight the waist.
Photo credits: Luca Notarfrancesco & Tania Innocenti