Interview: Paul & Yakov

Petr and Yury Polyakov; Designers

About the brand

Paul & Yakov is a new developing Russian brand, with the design-center based in Moscow. The brand is concentrated on research for outstanding materials and techniques as well as highest quality production. It was founded by two brothers — Petr and Yury Polyakov on the basis of the family fashion business specialized in outerwear production. For that reason – the main garments from Paul & Yakov – are cool, technological Japanese stonewashed cotton parkas and structured coats inspired by military heritage. The brand is also specialized in knitwear, combining in-house developed jacquards and finest cashmere and wool yarns. Paul & Yakov Moscow is inspired by Russia, Moscow and the changes that are constantly taking place in the city. The brand strives to solve the eternal Russian question of self-identification and to create a full-fledged Moscow style that would not be inferior to either Stockholm or Paris. Sales geography of Paul & Yakov: Sprezzatura (Paris), Aere-Store (Milan), Super (Milan), Rare Market (Seoul), TSUM (Moscow), LEFORM (Moscow), etc.

Official website: http://www.paulandyakov.com

When and how did you decide that you wanted to be a designer?

Our parents have founded a brand specialized in outerwear 20 years ago, so me and my brother were always integrated into the fashion business since the very childhood. The decision to be the part of the design team seemed to be evidential. Though I have an education in journalism, and my brother in economics both of these educational basics help to develop the brand.

Was it your dream job?

Actually never dreamed about it. We always had an example of our parents who were integrated into design and business development. That great image of our family was essential and it is a logic continuation. Just like in Italy, we are continuing the business with the new label. Though, my brother and I and are still continuing the development of the family’s main outerwear brand.

Which is the first thing you designed and for who?

It was part of Paul & Yakov Moscow.

Who’s designing do you admire most of all and why?

Dries Van Noten. He is an independent designer, not part of any business conglomerate. It’s really important to be creative enough as well as enterprising. But of course the aesthetics of Raf Simons and Martin Margiela are really inspiring, as they are both who have made a great input into contemporary fashion. I also admire J.W. Anderson. He is one of a kind designer of a younger generation that has his own and exceptional view on fashion.

Whom do you find your muse, your icon, while creating your work?

We are inspired by the Moscow and the beautiful youthful Moscovites.

If you would have to design an entire collection using just one color, which would be that one and why?

Black. Because Black is the Color of my true love’s hair.

The fabric that you love most of all – silk, lace, velvet… and why?

Knits. Different kinds of wool yarns and their combinations — these yarns are so diverse and rich.

If your creations would have a soundtrack, which one would you choose?

I am a huge fan of rock and blues music. It’s such a hard question. I would choose hundreds of favorite songs from Jefferson Airplane, Rodriguez, the Kinks, Rolling Stones, Nick Drake and etc.

Do you have any trick to avoid that “blank page” moment while you are at the beginning stage of designing a new collection? Do you watch a movie, or read an old magazine?

It’s always difficult to start new collection as it’s always hard to find the right inspiration. We watch lots of old movies and listen to particular songs trying to get the right mood.

If not a designer which direction would you choose in the fashion world and why?

I would love to be a musician. It’s not fashion. But still music is still a huge part of fashion.