Goossens Fall-Winter 2016
The melting hues of the Tibetan landscape, the musicality of names such as Lhassa, Himalaya, Kathmandou… These images and words have inspired Patrick Goossens for the new collection of the House of Goossens.
The iconic bronze in which the jewels are cast is embellished with genuine veneers, sometimes brushed or with a satin nish, in white, grey, yellow and brown gold. Rock crystal, systematically pear-shaped, is back in full majesty, clear, smoky or marbled. The stones are set, faceted, sometimes in cameo, placed upon lines that gradually taper off or amplify, illuminating massive and articulated volumes, rigid mesh or pleasingly exible rows. An ultra graphic buckle clasp is used for the necklaces, for cuffs and as ring decor, which makes it a Goossens code and signature. Settings, faceting, polishing, articulated and airy-light assemblages, metals meticulously crafted: the full measure of Goossens workshops know-how in jewelry and goldsmithing is honored in this new collection.
Goossens’ iconic “ball” cuff bracelet makes a comeback in a version revisited with framed rock crystal and stones. With its kiss lock toggle clasp, it stands out in a large or very large volume. In a set, it is worn with two openwork torques and large rings topped with three stones.
In the spirit of the volume contrasts and uidity that permeate the collection, thin and supple bracelets highlight one or three rows of set stones and rock crystal, with matching ear pendants. The long tie- necklaces are present in several lengths, and long multi-strand necklaces show pave-set rock crystals on engraved metal.
Rock crystal may herald a play of lights, but metal captures the light differently. Clean, brushed and with a satin nish, it is faceted like rock crystal to embellish a torque, or open cuff bracelets and rings with a grey or yellow gold nish. A minimalism that is matched by ear pendants that are slender as needles or faceted metal nails. The signature clasp embellishes the openwork bracelets in monochrome or two-tone metal.
Lastly, the link which is traditionally worked on exible structures becomes a rigid motif that clasps the wrist for bracelets and rings of different widths in subtly hammered metal. It also becomes more supple in XL link gold bronze necklaces.