Sacai Menswear FW 2016 at PFW

The pursuit of beauty in harmony with functionality. Shapes and fabrics inspired by utility and tradition, re-imagined in unexpected contexts; juxtaposing toughness with unexpected luxury.

And then adding more, with ’two in one’ pairings and new elements added to each piece – a notion that’s symbolic of ‘giving more’ and a metaphor for the pursuit of ‘more love in life’ that’s needed in today’s turbulent world, derived from the Japanese words for ‘love’ and ‘life’.

The tradition of a Chesterfield coat spliced with a Royal Navy parka hood. Regimental stripes re-imagined in shearling, knits and jersey, or as linings. Chino bonded to wool makes for a coupling born of function, mixed up with the tactile luxury of velvet detailing in jewel colors.

The naïve proportions of a duffle coat, re-imagined in the softest shearling fleece, worn over a second duffle with the rugged structure of wool melton, their fastenings interwoven as if one. A pea-coat cross-pollinated with a classic men’s overcoat. A leather biker turned inside out, inverted to expose its satin color-block lining.

A sheepskin aviator silhouette is re-imagined with the placket of a chesterfield coat, suggesting a new hyper-hybrid silhouette. A pea-coat cross-pollinated with a classic men’s overcoat. A leather biker turned inside out, inverted to expose its satin color-block lining. A suede biker jacket is paired with a second ‘inside out’ leather biker, inverted and re-mixed to make a new proportion.

Upholstery fabrics and pins re-purposed as detailing on coats and jackets. A cummerbund subverted and worn with the swagger of a punk-inspired‘bum flap’. Life vests make an underpinning of softest shearling. Raw leather military boots and sneakers, hand-made by Hender Scheme, that are garment dyed in oxblood, navy and khaki.

Embracing color with a filter of classism and elegance – navy, khaki and red, with burgundy shown as ‘the new navy’.