Parte integrante dello stile di CHANEL e elemento chiave nel suo lessico, il tweed svolge un ruolo vitale stagione dopo stagione nelle collezioni di Karl Lagerfeld. In un costante stato di evoluzione e reinvenzione, è stato un campo di espressione che non ha conosciuto mai limiti da quando ha fatto la sua prima apparizione da CHANEL nel 1924.
Gabrielle Chanel fu la prima persona a progettare abiti in questo materiale scozzese robusto. Innamorata del movimento, Chanel ha fatto in modo che il tweed avesse la massima elasticità che le ha permesso di produrre le giacche e gli abiti celebri dal 1950 in poi. Karl Lagerfeld oggi spinge il territorio del tweed un po ‘più in là ogni stagione facendolo scivolare nelle curve di un abito da sera, glorificando in un abito da sposa, e in drappeggi sopra scarpe e borse. Ricamato, tessuto, con paillettes, frange, strappato, dipinto, sfilacciato, in combinazione con cotone, seta, pelle, organza, gomma e anche plastica, questo materiale originariamente destinato per l’abbigliamento maschile, si piega a ogni fantasia del designer.
La collezione Primavera-Estate 2015 Ready-to-Wear esplora numerose sfaccettature del tweed in cappotti, abiti, giacche,e pantaloni dal taglio fluido. La borsa 11.12 è anche rivisitata come lo sono le nuove cartelle.
Il tweed è lavorato su tutta la collezione con precisione e creatività. In cotone o filati multicolori, è utilizzato per il tailleur pantalone e sulle borse besaces Girl Chanel. Per ottenere un effetto rappezzatura, fili colorati vengono gradualmente intrecciati uno per uno e in modi diversi. Ricamato con paillettes, dipinte a mano, il tweed è mescolato con trecce, strisce di chiffon dipinte e nastri di pizzo laccate secondo una tecnica sviluppata dal atelier Lesage, quindi è utilizzato su abiti, gonne, giacche e cappotti. Entrambi i cappotti tweed sia i lunghi che corti sono rivestiti con un dipinto crêpe de chine che aumenta il senso di leggerezza e le rende completamente reversibile.
An integral part of CHANEL’s style and a key element in its lexicon, tweed plays a vital role season after season in Karl Lagerfeld’s collections. In a constant state of evolution and reinvention, it’s been a field of expression that has known no limits ever since it made its first appearance at CHANEL in 1924.
Gabrielle Chanel was the first person to design dresses in this rugged Scottish material, closely followed by her sporting attire. Enamoured of movement, she made sure it had the maximum
suppleness that allowed her to produce the celebrated jackets and suits from the 1950s onwards. Perpetuating the spirit of the house, Karl Lagerfeld pushes the territory of tweed a little bit further with every season in the CHANEL collections, slipping it into the curves of an evening gown, glorifying it in a wedding dress, or draping it over shoes and handbags. Embroidered, woven, sequinned, fringed, ripped, painted, frayed, combined with cotton, silk, leather, organza, rubber and even plastic, this material originally destined for menswear, succumbs to every fantasy and to every one of the designer’s ideas.
The Spring-Summer 2015 Ready-to-Wear collection itself explores numerous facets of tweed, once again imbuing it with the face of modernity and an absolute elegance. Featuring in more than 20 silhouettes tweed is fashioned into coats, suits, jackets, dresses and fluidly-cut trousers. The 11.12 bag is also revisited as are the new satchels complimenting this season’s wardrobe that Karl
Lagerfeld wanted to be “flirty and intellectual, full of joy and hope.”
The tweed is worked here with precision and creativity. In cotton or multi-coloured yarns, it’s used for trouser suits and on assorted Girl CHANEL satchel bags that combine tweed, fringed netting and leather. To achieve a patchwork effect, colourful threads are gradually interwoven one by one and in different ways. Embroidered with sequins, painted by hand, the tweed is mixed with braids, strips of painted chiffon and lacquered lace ribbons according to a technique developed by the Lesage atelier, then it’s used on dresses, skirts, jackets and coats. As supple as the most fluid of fabrics, these Lesage woven tweeds are designed to follow the slightest gesture a body makes, thus building on the precepts of Gabrielle Chanel and her desire for comfort, elegance and freedom. Both long and short tweed coats are lined with a painted crêpe de chine that increases this sense of lightness and renders them completely reversible.
For this Spring-Summer collection the cotton tweed used for the jackets and the flowing skirts is transformed into a creative canvas, painted according to the technique of frame painting (a polyamide film stretched in a frame is perforated according to the chosen drawing for every colour that makes up the final pattern). Once more the tweed fabric has been renewed, reinvented and preserved, in the continual enrichment of CHANEL’s stylistic vocabulary.
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