Chanel in the Details

Chanel in the Details

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Chanel in the Details    Bandierine Italiano

Nel presentare la collezione Paris-Salzburg 2014/15 Karl Lagerfeld ha creato un’atmosfera squisitamente affascinante e intrigante a tutti i livelli.

La location dello Schloss Leopoldskron, spettacolore, è stata utilizzata al meglio e sono stati organizzati 3 defilé per poter permettere a tutti gli ospiti (accorsi in Austria da tutto il mondo) di ammirare la nuova linea, l’architettura tipicamente rococo è stata ulteriormente evidenziata dai decori scelti da Chanel: camini in marmo pieni di candele accese, tavole meravigliosamente e riccamente decorate di dolcissime tentazioni, sedie, poltrone e salatini in tipico stile del 18° secolo austriaco.

Tutti gli abiti e gli accessori sono stati ispirati a Karl da una visione contemporanea dello stile tirolese tradizionale, dalla storia dell’Austria e dal soggiorno di Coco in territorio austriaco che le ha ispirato l’iconica giacca Chanel (evento questo raccontato nel cortometraggio diretto da Karl Lagerfeld “Reincarnation”, proiettato la sera prima dello show).

Giacche e capispalla sono gli elementi più evidenti di questa ispirazione e descrivono una rilassata eleganza con un pizzico di tomboy. Un maxi cappotto portato aperto, svela degli short jeans in stile ledershosen (i tipici short con bretelle tirolesi). “È più una fantasia, deve essere moderna e giusta per i tempi che viviamo, le proporzioni, i materiali, tutto” ha detto Karl Lagerfeld.

Gli abiti da cocktail e quelli prettamente da sera sono pervasi da un tocco delicatamente drammatico e squisitamente femminile. Un cappa di piume rende ogni entrata magnifica e maestosa.

La palette della collezione include i classici colori Chanel: bianco, rosso, navy e nero ma mescolati con tinte di gusto tipicamente alpino quali il grigio colomba e il verde sottoposto. Questo rende ancora più interessante il contrasto dei materiali usati: loden, tweed, feltro, pelle da un lato e satin, chiffon, taffeta e pizzo dall’altro.

Anche gli accessori hanno qualcosa che ricorda l’estetica austro-ungarica, collane tessute di perle insieme a choker in satin nero, le borse (spesso in feltro) sono ricamate con fiori come le stelle alpine.

Dopo il défilé gli ospiti hanno potuto assaggiare una grande varietà di specialità culinarie godendosi la magnifica vista sul lago e le elegantissime stanze del castello.

#chanelsalzburg


The Paris-Salzburg 2014/15 collection was inspired by Karl Lagerfeld’s contemporary take on Tyrolean tradition, Austrian history and Mademoiselle Chanel’s stay in Austria that led to the iconic CHANEL jacket. The latter event was referred to in ‘Reincarnation,’ Karl Lagerfeld’s latest short film, shown the night before the show.

When presenting CHANEL’s Métiers d’art show in Salzburg on December 2nd 2014, Karl Lagerfeld created a hauntingly exquisite atmosphere on every level. Held at Schloss Leopoldskron, the Paris-Salzburg 2014/2015 collection was shown three times in order to accommodate all the guests who had arrived from Austria and all over the world. The eighteenth century castle is renowned for its rococo architecture and romantic view of the lake Leopoldskroner Weiher. However, every element was further enhanced by CHANEL’s décor that consisted of marble fireplaces filled with lit candles, tables majestically piled with sugary temptations as well as elaborate eighteenth century chairs and sofas to sit upon.

Jackets and coats are the main thrust of Paris-Salzburg’s daytime wear and define a tomboy’s effortless elegance. A CHANEL ivory tweed jacket with four pockets is teamed with wool trousers showing military- style side-stripe. A long embroidered jacket with full collar, flared sleeves and hem is worn with a matching dress. A maxi-length shearling coat, shown open, reveals lederhosen-style jean shorts. “This is more of a fantasy. It has to be modern, it has to be right for today, the proportions, everything,” states Karl Lagerfeld.

The cocktail and evening attire is delicately dramatic and infinitely feminine. A blouse embroidered with butterflies is teamed with a feathered mini skirt. A pinafore-style dress is made of densely embroidered black satin ribbons. A dirndl-style dress, with leather bodice, is entirely beaded. An embroidered leather jacket is worn with a pleated leather skirt. A magnificent cape made of feathers defines a major entrance. A tiered white ruffle dress has a be-jeweled black cummerbund.

Paris-Salzburg’s palette shows CHANEL’s iconic colors – white, red, navy, black – mixed with alpine hues like dove grey and forest green. Implying the collection’s contrast, fabrics vary from loden, tweed, felt, leather and cashmere to satin, chiffon, taffeta and lace.

Blouses are strict with high, ruff-like collars and the occasional bib. Jackets and coats often have a pleat at the back or martingale. Knits come teamed with matching leggings. Intricate embellishment consists of leather trim, extensive feather work and metal embroidery occasionally flaunting a modern alpine theme. “Generation come and go, but lederhosen will alaways stay,” jests Karl Lagerfeld at the end of the show.

A slew of Austro-Hungary-inspired accessories include an extensive range of jewellery, handbags and footwear. Knotted pearl necklaces are omnipresent and diamante oval-shaped buckles appear on black satin chokers. CHANEL felt bags are embroidered with alpine style flowers and boxy quilted leather CHANEL bags have gunmetal chains. Tyrol-type felt hats have feathers whereas black patent leather peasant clogs with straps, hiking shoes and hunting boots create instant allure.

Afterwards, guests enjoyed tasting the different culinary delights, presented on trays by a fleet of dirndl- clad servers, or admired the Schloss’s traditional rococo décor.

#chanelsalzburg