BIVER Watches: when the dial reflects the soul of a watch


BIVER Watches: when the dial reflects the soul of a watch

The young independent Maison honors the art of dial making with guilloché watch faces in Mother-of-Pearl and Black Obsidian

The last ten pieces of the initial fifty-piece series of the Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater explore new realms of elegance.

In closing the first major chapter of its history, and before the curtain rises on a new timepiece next September, the young independent Maison honors the art of dial making with guilloché watch faces in Mother-of-Pearl and Black Obsidian

The dial, the very face of a watch, not only sets the tone but also establishes its style. It captivates at first glance, a hint at the character of the timepiece. Whether it conceals or reveals the inner workings, the dial begins to weave the narrative of the watch before one even gets to the details of its composition or craftsmanship. It is the first chapter in the story that each watch uniquely tells.

Around 1850, the Parisian tailor Chevreuil famously opined that a suit is, first and foremost, an idea that envelops a man’s body. This perspective deeply resonates with Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver. They too perceive a watch as an extension of the wearer’s personality.

“A watch transcends mere objecthood; it is not just a collection of moving parts. It embodies a desire, ambition, and conviction. It represents both an abstract vision and a concrete accomplishment. A watch is a personal notion that seamlessly integrates with the wearer. Our philosophy,” Pierre Biver shares, “is to bring out the soul of each watch.”

As the face of the watch, the dial inherently mirrors its essence. This makes the dial maker’s craft integral to the chain of expertise and craftsmanship involved in the art of watchmaking. Since the dawn of horology, the dial has been the focus of the utmost attention and care. As a defining element, it straddles two realms: form and function. For the ultimate ten pieces of the initial fifty-piece series of its first watch, the Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater, launched just a year ago, the young independent Maison Biver wished to pay a particular tribute to the dial maker’s artistry – by proposing two original dial options. The first dial, crafted from black obsidian, creates a striking contrast with the warm preciousness of the rose gold case. The second, in mother-of-pearl, enhances the elegant simplicity of the titanium version.

In keeping with the original versions, in the spirit of coherence and continuity and striving for consistency and harmony, both watch faces are ever so subtly domed – a complex effect achieved through meticulous polishing of the raw material. This curvature not only enhances the interplay of light upon its surface but also pays homage to historical timepieces, particularly 18th and 19th-century pocket watches, whose dials were not perfectly flat.

The guilloché pattern commands attention. Its singular form arises from the engraving being concentrically executed around the tourbillon, ensuring that no two curves are identical. This meticulous craftsmanship results in a truly one-of-a-kind design. A bold, powerful, and modernist geometry that draws inspiration particularly from some of the most beautiful aspects of 1970s and 1980s automotive design.

A deep respect for natural materials
Beyond a stylistic intention, the guilloché and polishing work on mother-of-pearl and obsidian demonstrate the reverence artisan-craftspeople of Biver Watches feel for natural materials. Black obsidian, once shaped into tools and weapons in prehistoric times, now enchants as a gemstone with its enigmatic shades. Mother-of-pearl, ethereal in its very structure, continuously mesmerizes with myriad reflections.

“In working with these natural materials, we honor their integrity and their essence. We are guided by the whims of nature and therefore we embrace its unpredictability,” Pierre Biver shares.

Also notable is the thoughtful selection of materials for the watch straps. On the titanium version with the mother-of-pearl dial, Alcantara, with its velvety texture and the almost mineral quality of its gray hue, enhances the watch’s sporty elegance with a nod to exclusive automotive design. Meanwhile, the gray water buffalo leather strap selected for the rose gold variant with an obsidian dial, stands out due to its rarity, strength, and durability, offering a compelling blend of luxury and functionality.

While each collector will naturally be able to customize their piece according to their desires, with this special series of ten timepieces, Biver Watches introduces two complementary artistic directions for its Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater.

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