The Ermanno Scervino collection for autumn-winter 2024/2025 is an investigation into the body and its armor. Sculptural delicacy and determined femininity arrive on the catwalk, revealing the simultaneously revealing and protective power of clothes. Fashion is a tool for self-determination.
The attitude of placing the hands on the hips to squeeze the waist, of the bare legs marking the step, of indulging in a hug while holding the collar of the coats in place, are signs of confidence. Combining the edges and roundness of femininity, Ermanno Scervino redesigns the boundaries of his own identifying codes, adding a sober touch of mystery. Awareness requires no proclamations.
Traditional men’s fabrics, from pinstripes to wool grisailles, are the canvas that gives voice to the sartorial soul of the brand, characterized by elaborate constructions for hourglass jackets that sculpt the body, by herringbone coats with dropped shoulders that caress it, up to the bustier dresses in double wool, examples of the craftsmanship and technological mastery of the atelier. The lead gray suits have oversized trousers, contributing to the models’ theatrical gait, and combined with blazers and spencer jackets.
Cornerstone of Ermanno Scervino’s stylistic work, corsetry is a spokesperson for seduction; it recurs in the collection in the form of double wool bras combined with midi skirts with intarsia work, in the nude-colored midi dresses embellished with placed quilting and in the embroidered versions that shine through the evening dresses in impalpable organza.
Crocodile-effect leather transforms into armour, a metaphor for women’s ability to reinvent themselves, for wide-shouldered pea coats cinched at the waist, for peacoats lined in shearling and decorated with knitted embroidery, as well as on bustier dresses.
The play of proportions in the collection is strengthened by the large hand-embroidered faux fur snow boots like the Mongolian and shearling jackets and by the tight-fitting boots like stockings, with very high heels.
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