Each cruise collection is an opportunity for Maria Grazia Chiuri to weave a fruitful cultural dialogue around exceptional craftsmanship. Presented in Mexico City this May, the Dior cruise 2024 collection follows this approach while reflecting the multiple specificities of the Mexican artisanal context, past and present.
Covering a vast and diverse territory, the states of Mexico are home to numerous communities whose identities and histories are especially shaped by their textile and sartorial traditions. Conceived as an actual research project, allowing an in – depth study of the social and historical implications of craft cultures, this collection creates a space to explore and showc ase a series of works undertaken by various indigenous communities.
Connected by a belief in the preservation of traditional techniques and the safeguarding of cultural practices embodied by textiles, Maria Grazia Chiuri has gathered around her different generations of artisans from different regions of Mexico. The collaborative process has varied, encompassing the creation of original pieces mixing embroidery and weaving techniques with garments and accessories drawn from the Dior archives, and the commi ssioning of a collection of shirts and huipils entirely designed and crafted by the communities.
Beyond the visual manifestation of these powerful cultural artefacts within the collection, the creative dialogue has fostered a shared perspective: one in w hich the transmission of gestures, patterns and values pertaining to textile and dress form a common vision of the future, with thriving artisanal legacies.
YOLCENTLE Hilan Cruz Cru z, born in Tlacomulco Huauchinango, in the vicinity of Puebla, is a Nahua weaver and student of social anthropology. Co – founder of the Yolcentle Textile Workshop, he combines his training as a weaver and as an anthropologist to highlight the social, aesthetic, and technical aspects of textiles both within and beyond his culture. For this collection, he was invited to collaborate on a series of shirts and dresses incorporating embroideries produced in his workshop and reflecting the flora and fauna of his community’s environment.
SNA JOLOBIL Pedro Meza is a weaver and the founder, over three decades ago, of Sna Jolobil , which means the “House of Weaving” in Tzotzil language. Perpetuating the living heritage of Mayan culture, his enterprise employs artisans from the Chiapas region. By recoveri ng designs from archeological sites and conceiving a cooperative structure for the commercialization of textiles, he has earned a unique reputation as a pioneer of craft preservation. Pedro Meza has participated in the creation of this collection by produc ing, with the artisans, a gaban – a long square tunic – as well as sash belts, woven in cotton with yarn embroideries by the Tzotzil communities of Zinacantan and San Juan Chamula.
REMIGIO MESTAS Remigio Mestas is a weaver and a promoter of artisanal textiles born in Villa Hidalgo Yalag, in the region of Oaxaca. Familiarized with the backstrap loom techniques in his youth, he eventually devoted his life to the gathering and transmission of knowledge on Oa xacan textiles. Establishing several artisanal textile stores across the country, he has been recognized as one of the most influential and respected figures for the promotion and representation of his home region’s craft. For the Dior cruise 2024 line, he oversaw the creation of four traditional huipils , illustrating the unique weaving, dyeing and embroidery techniques of several indigenous groups: the Zapotecs of San Blas Atempa, Isthmus Tehuantepec, Oaxaca; the Chinantecs of Papaluapan Basin, Valle Nacio nal, Oaxaca; the Mazatecs of la Chuparrosa, Jalapa de Diaz, Oaxaca.
ROCINANTE Narcy Areli Morales established Rocinante , a brand committed to showcasing and revitalizing craftsmanship in Oaxaca in 2012. In close collaboration with local artisans, she works with traditional techniques to pay homage to the centuries – old heritage of her region. For this show, Narcy Areli Morales oversaw the creation and production of an embroidery technique known as “pepenado fruncido”. Produced by an all – fe male Mixtec community – located in San Lucas Redención, San Pablo Tijaltepec and Tlaxiaco, Oaxaca – , their work depicts, through stitches and pleats, birds, plants and other natural elements translated into geometric patterns. Their distinctive colors and motifs are incorporated in the iconic silhouettes of Dior jackets, shirts and skirts.
EXCEPTIONAL COLLABORATIONS ALSO WOVEN AROUND ACCESSORIES:
The Dior cruise 2024 collection also features a series of jewelry pieces created using the goldsmith techniques of the Plata Villa workshops in Mexico City. Led by Rafael Villa Rojas, this third generation of artisans continues the traditional work initiated by the masters who preceded them. Using fine silver and the openwork technique, the grou p has created rings, pendants and bracelets around the motif of butterflies.
Originally from the town of San Francisco del Rincón, in a region dedicated to the production of sombreros made from locally grown palm trees, the fourth generation of the Moreno family continues the millinery tradition in its Alema workshop. Weaving this natural material into different shapes, they contributed to this Dior cruise 2024 collection by designing a Jarocho hat, typical of the state of Veracruz.
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