By Ilira Naselli Flores
Loewe, in this collection, plays sometimes with cartoon world, sometimes with a fantasy world.
Anderson uses different balances, shapes and volumes are mixed, bags that are part of the dresses and even outfits that seems to come out from illustration.
This season there’s a focus on prints. This is how trompe-l’oeil ‘ghost’ creations are born. From dresses to trench coats to fur coats, everything comes down to an impression, a memory that comes back.
“Printing a garment on a garment is not a new thing. But I was fascinated about the psychology of how we ultimately see things online. The blurry aspect in motion looks like a glitch. It’s out of focus. Is it staged, or not staged? Is it the right color, is it photoshopped? ” says Anderson.
At first glance it looks like a simple bag. Just focus on it for a moment longer to discover the unexpected: the chain actually holds up the hem of the dress.
Can a small sphere support the volume of an immense draped fabric? At Loewe you also experiment on this type of balance. All the chic allure of a blazer and a suit, and all the rigidity of an armour. Two distant worlds that meet giving us brand new garments with a somewhat cartoonish mood; that he describes as “Playmobil”.
Photo gallery: Daniele Oberrauch
One of the reasons that Anderson is up there among the most significant designers of today is that he has such a sharp instinct for drawing attention to timely, complicated questions. What’s real, and what’s fake? And more to the point, what’s constructive that can come out of that question? Anderson had fun with that, warping anachronistic haute couture techniques and generic dress types to make ‘T-shirts’ and ‘jeans’ entirely of goose-feathers.
We are used to conceiving feathers as a refined décor. But here feathers are used extensively: they cover the entire texture of sweaters, trousers and skirts.
“I’ve been 10 years here at Loewe. You kind of you start to be like, ‘Well, ‘what is that next chapter like?’” His answer this season was to go fully into the fine leather and suede which are the brand’s heritage. “I feel like in the beginning that was something that I kind of went away from,” he affirms “Whereas now, it’s about implementing it back in.”
Photo Cover: Emrata via Instagram
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