The HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE AW 2023/24 collection – Upon A Simplex – is a study on triangles and other simple geometric shapes that lead to the creation of complex shapes. The volumes obtained are incorporated into the garments and the segments of their components are adapted like folds in the construction of the fabric. A collection of elaborate shapes that reflect the simplicity of basic geometry.
The show is directed by Adrien M & Claire B, a French visual and performing arts company, whose immersive video installations transform the catwalk into a world where perceptions of space and gravity seem blurred. A fluid membrane – like an imaginary river made of a myriad of particles – appears and disappears. It seems to respond to the rhythm of a mysterious chant. It vibrates, sways, expands, crumples and unfolds accompanying otherworldly moments as it emerges and submerges.
The MONTHLY COLOR JULY series features a vibrant color palette. The jacket has a loose, rounded silhouette. The crested pleats extend from the neck to the shoulders like raglan sleeves, lending themselves to the tubular construction.
EDGE COAT is designed with radius pleats and made of high density polyester. The new three-dimensional coat is inspired by a composition of triangles and features a pleat on the back that extends from cuff to cuff and runs across the back.
SKEW GRID is a pleated grid print with contrasting colours, available in three models: coat, waistcoat and trousers. Diagonal creases and oblique lines create an optical illusion that gives movement to the graphics.
The UNFOLD series features rectangular overlays that can be opened or closed to alter the silhouette. By undoing the buttons, the overlapping pieces open into triangular shapes interrupting the linear silhouette: a playful design that can be worn in different ways.
TRUSS is a coat that takes its name from its triangular construction similar to that of trellis structures. Crafted from short-fiber recycled nylon to give the fabric a soft, cotton-like texture, it has adjustable drawstrings inserted into the seams that transform the garment and enhance its silhouette. The strap inside can be pulled out so the coat can be worn over the shoulder.
TRIANGULAR GRID is a graphic series that reinterprets the work of American architect and philosopher R. Buckminster Fuller, based on his approach of transforming and subdividing a sphere into triangles. In the print, the triangles gradually increase in size, adding a three-dimensional touch to the rounded silhouette.
The garments of the THREE BY SIX series are made up of six triangles in a hexagonal formation. The design creates an opening in the center of each hexagon (for the neck or body to pass through) and an irregular rim.