“Actually I wanted to create a synthesis between a powerful and sophisticated femininity, with an effect of multiple American and Parisian influences, sporty and artisanal. Next to her is a contemporary man with an attitude of chic nonchalance. On the catwalk, both are linked. from a profound sense of reality “. Matthew M. Williams, Creative Director of Givenchy.
By applying the sensibility of the haute couture atelier to the archetypes of everyday wear, this season Givenchy elevates the apparently ordinary to the extraordinary, making the formal look possible for every day. The silhouettes are just as simple and imposing, ornamental and functional, structured and linear, showing the connection between luxury and functionality typical of Matthew M. Williams, still emphasized in both men’s and women’s garments.
A decisive, sartorial femininity is placed at the center of attention in the clear silhouette that is both formal and informal, pure and bold. Nothing is exaggeratedly precious, even when the materials used are: worn denim welcomes spectacular sequins and pearls in homage to Hubert de Givenchy’s sense of decorative practicality. Wool dresses with ruffles meet sportiness in the incredible colors and nets that elevate everyday garments, making evening ones comfortable. They adapt to a graceful but concrete rider, whose suggestive charm is emphasized by the glimpses of bare skin.
Inspired by outerwear – and enriched by a pragmatic palette of intense browns, greens, grays and blacks – the designer’s attention to colors is applied in an unconventional way to fluid and tailored silhouettes as well as to dresses with ruffles, transparent, delicately hand embroidered. Givenchy’s classicism and radicalism meet in a game of superimposed volumes and textures. The everyday familiarity of washed-effect jersey is explored with a new, intricate and layered rigor that brings out the graphic experimentation and 4D printing of the embroideries. At the same time, this approach contrasts with classic tailoring, exploring single-breasted and double-breasted structured shapes, but giving them the comfort and lightness of wool and flannel. Wide, tailored trousers and voluminous overcoats play on contrasts. The denim is worn, treated and experienced as much as the duchess satin found in the collection. Everything is brought together by the silhouette, whether it is long and floating or short and rigid but with cascading elements such as elaborate ruffles, hand-stitched smocking and pleating, details that emphasize movement, practicality and the possibility of using them. daily for the wearer.
The collection is dotted with elements borrowed from Hubert de Givenchy’s Haute Couture archives, modified and made contemporary. Hardware elements become jewels and pearls turn into studs. Pearls combine two elements: as a utilitarian motif that recalls studs and as an extravagant hand-made decoration on garments, peeping out on jewels and bags. Also revisited from the archives is the leopard print of 1955, overdyed and used in men’s outerwear. The embroideries inspired by the black thistle – together with the pearl, the thistle is the protagonist of the collection and is also found in the prints – were meticulously handcrafted from goose feathers and also applied to jewelry and shoes.
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