The tradition of impressive show sets was perpetuated at the unveiling of the Autumn-Winter 2022-2023 collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri as the space specially constructed in Paris’s Jardin des Tuileries was lined with an striking selection of works from the ‘The Next Era’ cycle by artist Mariella Bettineschi.
The Next Era is the title of the work Mariella Bettineschi imagined for the Dior ready-to-wear fall-winter 2022-2023show, wherein the Italian artist proposes a gallery of paintings composed of large-scale portraits of women fromthe history of painting from the 16thto the 19thcentury. Their cut up, stacked eyes question the judgment that hasconditioned – and still conditions – women past and present. The gaze is reversed to suggest another reading of arthistory.
This “framework” of the fashion show breathes life into Maria Grazia Chiuri’s concepts; notably (re)constructinga performative relationship between the body and the garment in a technical, aesthetic perspective, in a succession ofoperations associating forms, savoir-faire, materials and futuristic technologies
Arranged in the manner of a Renaissance gallery, portraits of women from the canon of European art have been isolated from their original context and reconstituted on a white base with slashed and stacked eyes, creating a powerfully unnerving interaction with the observer.