Ispirata dalla fantasia distorta della fotografia surrealista, Veronique Leroy racconta una donna seduttiva e cerebrale, il cui corpo – disegnato da tessuti e fantasie grafiche quasi ipnotiche – è in tenuto in tensione da accessori dall’allure sottilmente fetish.

Tutto ha inizio con la collezione spring/summer 2014, l’architettura dei tagli propone volumi cocoon e ridefinisce il corpo, la figura è essenziale, potente, grande attenzione alla linea delle spalle, la vita segnata da minimali cinture gioiello, gonne al ginocchio, gli orli – richiamano la manualità della sartoria casalinga – rimandano a emozioni familiari.

La palette dei colori esplora sottili sfumature come il rosso bruciato, il nero matte, giallo zolfo e si illumina con beige make-up e blu cielo estivo.

Le stoffe, elaborate, re-inventate, spesso usate ritmicamente, ricamate, bucate e bordate in bordura. Tweed detta le nuove regole attraverso una fantasia a scacchi bianchi e neri, mescolata ogni tanto con sottili trasparenze. Tessuti di jacquard di lana a pelo lungo, feltro, gabardine leggero, anche la spugna (altro materiale chiave della collezione) muta in una forma destrutturata.

I pezzi chiave: capi spalla di ispirazione militare, giacche alla vita in feltro bucherellato, vestiti in mohair a maglia seguono il corpo e si avvitano in pieghe plissé, pantaloni larghi dall’orlo corto con piega pressata.

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English Text

Inspired by the puzzling fantasy of surrealistic photography, Véronique Leroy summons a woman both seductive and brainy, whose suggested body, graphically designed by quasi-hypnotic rhythmical fabrics, is tensioned by accessories bearing subtle fetishist connotations.

Initiated in the summer 2014 collection, the architecture dispels cocoon volumes and re-sketches the body, lightly brushing it. The figure is sleek, powerful, the shoulder breadth imposing, the waist outlined, as if suspended and detached in tail-like effects, and the hemline plunges under the knee. The edgings, often recalling home-made craftsmanship, echo emotions. Clasps and snap fasteners fade out and let the line speak for itself.

The palette, still bearing its singularity, explores subtle grounds such as burnt red, matt black, sulfur yellow and lights up with make-up beige, Poliakoff red, and summer sky blue.

Fabrics, elaborated and enthralling, often rhythmical, always reworked -be they lacquered, embroidered, holed, or cord-trimmed- claim crude luxury. Tweed, the template fabric, sets new rules through a blurry black and white checkerboard, stirred at times by transparent lacquers. Hairy Jacquard woolen garments vibrate their oversized shell pattern, pulsating them with staggered chevron of vivid contrastive colours. Powerful felt cloths are enhanced by a bourdon stitch edging. Light gabardines, sassily holed, invite themselves in. Sponge, another signature fabric, mutates in some unstructured form, fueled with raw finishes.

Concerning the key-pieces, feast your eyes on the military greatcoat, its constructivist architecture displaying powerful volume, cut in raw edges, enhanced with its removable plastron. The waist-length jacket, over-cut and in holed felt, displays its combination with a pointed collar. The mohair-knit coat-dress, nipped-in at the waist on the front, follows the body and loosens itself in round and supple pleats. The combi-trousers, generating sub-vibrating sensations, freely sculpt its knife pleats. Large, straight-legged shortened trousers are structured with a pressed pleat. The double-breasted flared skirt suit, when strapped with a belt, blends flexibility and posture, thus calling for a new sense of classicism.

Just like some impulsion, a silver-plated metal half belt can also cage waists. Or it may enclose the ankle of a platform boot.