Wales Bonner showcased her Spring/Summer 2020 collection in the form a presentation during London Fashion Week.

This collection is the first from Wales Bonner since she won the 2019 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, an annual prize that comes with 200,000 pounds and industry support, and she used Afro-Cuban dance as her starting point for spring.

Her collection is light and fluid with strong lines and lots of curves.

What emerges in the hand is the detail—the elevated sophistication of her slim track-tuxedo pants, the volume of her wide-leg trousers with their “outside” pockets and the contrasting running stitch on the outside seams, the way belts are covered with macramé, the tiny roses embroidered on the pintucks of a fitted shirt.

What about the question of sustainability? This season’s stretch fabrics inevitably involve polyester. But Wales Bonner is working on that. By the time she has her next show in January, she pledges she’ll be producing her clothes “in a fully sustainable Italian factory that Katharine Hamnett uses.”