Discoveries between finished article and working process is the main theme of Arthur Arbesser’s spring/summer 2019 collection. This season is decided to be shown as a laboratory, space where all ideas start to take a shape.
First of all, all people eyes go to perfect geometry of graphic experimentations which take off them to Vienna of the early 20th century. After it, two works of Fausto Melotti, an Italian sculptor, leads collection for themes of humanity. He plays between enclosed figures in ethereal space following mathematical rules but at the same lets himself to be contradicted by heterogeneous rhythms. This decision as a retro-journey reminds people a simplicity of harmony, geometry and natural order.
Regarding clothes, its notice rhythmic inventions, harmonious, sometimes syncopated but its always stay graceful. Arbesser slightly balances and plays between deconstruction and reconstruction of classic shapes. Interpretation as a dialogue between two different languages of materials is seen as union between lines and natural silhouette.
Arthur Arbesser’s collection spotlights a difference between a few materials, the neat lines of the jackets, stark in their sartorial construction, and the softness of dressing gowns and aprons, such as transparent velvet. Surreal elements refer to the face of Viennese sculptor Vally Wieselthier, whose head modelled in ceramic serves as inspiration to convey a mature and mischievous femininity.
Arbesser stays loyal to metallic component, such as gold and platinum coatings, for several seasons already. These details are balanced with natural materials like printed and fringed jute or linen jersey. The dynamic tone of the collection is set by the prints. They emerge from a transverse line that unites the playful flair of Melotti and the geometric rule of the stripes which one of the most distinctive themes of the brand.
Because of whirlwind of colours, organic prints, collection again marks and reminds tone and mood of whole creative process: an end result of a process that is both reflective and material, a synthesis between concept and object.
Also, important to notice a collaboration with tuscan shoe brand Fabio Rusconi, the earrings, designed by designer Nathalie Jean and the ceramic sculptures are created by Austrian designer and ceramist Onka Allmayer-Beck.