Cambodia and the charm of the temples of Angkor Wat, where nature takes possession of the beauty that belongs to it, climbing on the architecture in a mystical fusion. The colors of rice fields and of the Vietnamese terraces, the lights of the lanterns of Hoi An, in a journey with dreamlike nuances yet at the same time realistic. There, where the Heroic Mothers of Vietnam descended to the front with all the strength of women to defend their territory. For the spring- summer 2018 Couture collection, presented on Monday 22nd January at 6 pm in the Salle Melpomène of the Palais des Beaux Arts in Paris, within the official calendar of the Haute Couture, Antonio Grimaldi is inspired by the wind of the Orient, painted with bright shades where Haute Couture becomes a play on the military uniform. An “army” collection reinterpreted in the key of couture in which dungarees, supported by crystal straps that reveal the back, and where shirts are embellished with platinum metal embroidery recall the ranks of generals. The sahariana, a reinterpreted must on the catwalk, becomes an evening dress.
Thread embroidered coat dress with pendant tif effect on fabrics inlaid with tulle and immersed in crystals. Shirts as long dresses, also worn over pants, with hand-embroidered collars. Then asymmetric interplay between panels that intertwine and turn into traces between pink gold embroidery. The color palette ranges from mauve to wisteria, passing to beige and the shades of copper-effect pink. Minicoats in chiffon lined with organza, dresses made with a métissage of chiffon, cady crepe and duchess in a material and tactile contrast, almost sculptural.
Then, pleats. Spots of color that recall the pictorial paintings of Paul Gauguin. Nature reclaims civilization and the sacred place with the final long dress where vine-like branches design the silhouette and bloom on the body, enrobing it. Jewels like thorns or studs, inspired by bamboo are signed by designer Bernard Delettrez.