An imaginary journey, through different places and periods, in search of a new canon of beauty.
The Marni Spring 2018 collection draws inspiration from the past to project itself into the future. Key items in every wardrobe are archetypes of beauty that travel through the history of the costume and Marni makes them his own by re-reading them and reinterpreting them according to his own vision.
So the 20s swimwear shows itself in an unprecedented knit version, lively in color, bold in combinations. The uniform, symbol of sobriety, is a reflection on the pragmatic. The jacket in industrial gabardine reveals a reversible poplin interior that suggests an alternative use. Magazine in proportions, it becomes a dramatic overcoat.
The utility that becomes couture. The flared skirts, echoes of the romanticism of the 50s, undergo the manual intervention of a knot to create a volume not built, but pursued spontaneously. The collar of the men’s shirt in the XXL version is cut to open and become a hyper-feminine neckline. The eel trench is bound on the shoulders, like a backpack.
The bourgeois suits are distorted in the volumes, the meticulous hand embroidery becomes decorative pattern, the fur a geometric inlay. The silhouette stretches out, the evening is interpreted with languid dresses that touch the body, the silk petticoat is worn over the shirt, the rough linen dress is enriched with brocade patches.
Micro prints: small signs, graphic dashes, abstract motifs.
Macro prints: geometric flowers in neat compositions blend together with beaded inlays: two visions of the beautiful that coexist, exalting each other.
Pictorial prints: the naive sketches of the artist Magdalena Suarez are traces of dreams, exotic landscapes and animals in balance between reality and fantasy.
The shoes are handmade jewelry. Sandals embellished with pearls stand on midi heels, alternating with ’20s court shoes tied to the ankle. The bags are small travel briefcases, the shoulder strap a weave of fabric.
Objects found. Accumulations of small colored pearls, resins and maxi flowers for the earrings.