Nicholas Kirkwood’s SS18 collection became a piece of art

by ZOE MAGAZINE

2 Ottobre 2017

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The luxury shoes designer Nicholas Kirkwood presented the SS18 collection, what was inspired by artist Eva Rothschild’s work. Nicholas Kirkwood is drawn to her sculptural works as they are often characterized using unstable geometric forms. Rothschild also references minimalism frequently in her work and Kirkwood looked at the 90s interpretation of this movement when creating this collection.

This Early 90’s minimalism is contrasted with references from light, sculpture, and installation art forms offering slick, subversive and technical overtones, seen throughout this whole collection.

Key Colors of collection: Ink, Rosewood, Clay, Bleached Blue, Citron, Soft Aqua and White.

Key Fabrics: Bleached Denim and Nappa, Printed Mirror Leather, Crinkly Metallic Leather, Lurex, Satin Drill, Metallic Weave, Elaphe, Lace, Raffia, and Paillettes.

What’s new?

Nini takes its name from the wife of architect Carlo Scarpa, a brand-new block heel finished with gold metal linear detailing that appears filigree and almost as a jewelry-like adornment against the volume of the block heel. Uppers feature a striking folded over leather and satin detail.

Mica is distinguished by a studied Plexi-heel filled with a cloudy detail giving the impression of there being swirling smoke trapped inside it. This heel detail was inspired by the ‘Night Swimming’ series of works (taken over several years) by renowned fine-art photographer Wolfgang Tillmans.

Eva plays heavily on volume and the ‘stolen space’ created around it when elements of it are removed. The heel is sliced off in part, this missing piece highlighted by a metal geometric plate. Dense suede or leather uppers draw the eye to what is there and the spaces taken out from them that frame the foot. Bigger expanses of material are juxtaposed with a slim ankle strap fastening with a mini gold hexagon buckle.

HyperFocal: 0

Kristen takes its moniker from renowned model Kristen McMenamy. It became Nicholas Kirkwood’s muse, celebrated for her irreverent femininity. The zip detail secures folds of sumptuous leather, removing volume but keeping its appearance.