Julien Fournié pays tribute to the ladies with a destiny who have become his customers. Far from any fashion trend and a thousand leagues away from vulgar red carpet outfits, these empowered ladies represent genuine fashion icons. The couturier is proposing to these muses his expert cut looks which help lift up the spine to define the elegance of timeless Haute Couture in a contemporary expression with some delicate Gothic accents.
His color palette (“nude”, black and gold) is declined in selected materials: mohair, jersey, lace and the silk faille which Julien Fournié is using for the first time under his signature. If only the three-quarters sleeves allow to see the bare skin, the derma is sometimes only veiled with a layer of nude tulle all over the body, embroidered with black sequins in strategic places, or adorned with black lace in geometric plunging V- necklines. Yet femininity is celebrated everywhere, including in the pieces without sheer fabric.
The silhouette comes first in these close-to-the-body cuts on the top which are suggesting sensuality by reproducing the gesture of morphing, with kimono sleeves allowing to sculpt the bust, while ruffles and amplitude are reserved – from the hipline downwards- to the bottom part of the garments, in order to mark the right pace in motion with the walking of the ladies who will have the privilege of wearing these exceptional pieces.
The same rigor and movement are found in coats and trench coats, while shimmering embroidered fabrics are often reserved to under dresses and only seen through the filter of the sheer “déshabillés” covering them up. Gold exclusive jacquards of the season are declined in geometric lotus motifs, or referent to “tachism” of the 1940s, just like this great black taffeta dress embroidered with gold sequins.
Still in golden tones, safety pins seem to adjust the bustier à la Charles James in a spectacular nude silk faille dress. With shoulders almost always covered, the outfits favor knotted drapes often attached by reinterpretations of antique jewels in marcasite, onyx and solid silver. Short hair emphasizes the eyes, just like the feathers placed on the eyelids. Here and there, a crown of feathers bars the face, like the pencil line by the couturier to bring back on the models the gesture of his mysterious fashion illustrations.
At the feet of these ladies, T-strap sandals rule, enhanced by a discreet platform. Most times, they come in shades of “nude” often illuminated by the entire surface of the house’s signature heel in whitened gold leather. In floor length gowns, the hemline always floats a few centimeters above ground level, to give a glimpse of voluptuousness as if paraphrasing these verses by Alfred de Musset;
“And when one gets a glimpse of the foot, the leg can be imagined. And everyone knows that she has a charming foot. ” The bride is wearing a large nude ample court coat on an ivory lace sheath with geometric inlays to enhance body curves. Unveiled, the bride will take off the crown of feathers which is masking her eyes only to embrace the man with whom she is about to seal her destiny.