Dior Homme Summer 2018/Latenight Summer
On the occasion of his ten-year anniversary at Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche revels in the craftsmanship of the house atelier situated at N°3 rue Marignan in the 8th Arrondissement of Paris. Musings on process and proportion become the subject of the Summer 2018 collection, as the studied deconstruction and reconstruction of the Dior Homme suit produces controlled gestures of volume.
Tailored in black ottoman wool, a slim and sculpted blazer is the subject of multiple variations: the long summer coat, a backless or sleeveless gilet, and a new bias-cut tailcoat. The base of the Dior Homme jacket is bisected into polos and shirting or tacked to wide pants, whilst its sleeves tie at the waist as an urban trompe l’oeil.
Exploring the brink of adulthood, varsity elements are fused with the tenets of fine suiting – a jacket melds with a bomber sleeve, collegiate wreaths adorn track tops, and striped argyle knits are strung with garlands of naïve gothic jewellery.
Basting stitches and selvedge create humble embellishments, as the monochrome address ribbon appears throughout the collection: alongside taped edges and ribbed athletic stripes, it joins the atelier logo to elevate hooded outerwear and grained nappa leather-goods. Drawn from the oil paintings of François bard, hooded figures, portraits, and dark orchids inject shots of cyan and yellow to a palette of vermillion, burgundy, camel and sky blue.
The freedom of innocence prevails, in a midsummer mood that marks the penultimate fusion of sport and suit.