Lanvin Menswear FW 17/18: the return to reality of Lucas Ossendrijver
The first mannequin appears and on his scarf the key word of the winter 2017 collection is showed: “NOTHING”. Lucas Ossendrijver, the artistic director of Lanvin’s men’s collections, has decided to refocus on the design, construction and proportion … a successful collection with perfect cuts and beautiful simplicity.
Inspired by everyday life, the collection is made up of the key pieces of the men’s dressing room – such as the check shirt, the parka, the Chino pants having been sublimated but always in a luxury synonymous with simplicity with natural materials.
The work on the cuts and the volumes is remarkable, making the genius of the collection: a narrow suit with narrow shoulders reworked with folds forming kinds of prints along the sleeves and back, or a XXL coat ‘Pipe spirit.
It is here, the technical know-how, the fabrics, the work of proportions that allow these everyday clothes to become extraordinary pieces. T-shirts cut on the bias are worn with oversize sweaters, Chino pants are available in hand-dyed cotton in multiple colors.
For the winter of 2017, Lucas Ossendrijver declined the leather in different shades, sometimes sewn in patchwork on a jacket or then rubbed by hand for a jacket Perfecto …
The cast, half of which was performed on the street, is composed of strong faces, atypical and reflects a collection celebrating variety and blending.
“This season, although the drawings are very studied, they are also easier, more rooted in reality where nothing is uniform. In this sense, I wanted this collection to be a punch rather than a caress” , Explains Lucas Ossendrijver.
Anaelle Coulon
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