Dries Van Noten FW17 / 18: 5 things to remember

1) The place: A return to origins

For the presentation of its 99th collection, Dries Van Noten has chosen to invest the underground tunnel of the Porte de Versailles in Paris … a place that is now familiar to him since it had already passed through its collections in 1993 and 1999.

The message then seems clear: the designer wants to go back to basics, build on the past to move forward, take the traditional men’s locker room and reinvent it with the codes of the house.

2) Unexpected Pattern: The logo of its suppliers

Dries Van Noten made a sort of tribute to all these traditional businesses working for him by wearing the logo of these houses as a motif on his sweaters and sweatshirts. So, all those who participated in the creation of this collection have seen their logo highlighted on the pieces of the collection: Fox Brothers & Co, Jamieson and Smith …

3) Voluminous silhouettes

For the winter of 17/18, the silhouettes of Dries Van Noten have become more voluminous. The shoulders are wide, padded both in jackets, coats and sweatshirts. The jacquard sweaters are ample and the coats very long with wide lapels as shown by the flagship coat of the collection that opened the show. The proportions seem crooked with oversized sweaters and overcoats worn on narrower pants.

4) Quilted Comfort

The quilted fabric traditionally used for our down jackets has passed into the hands of the famous designer to turn into a sweatshirt or even into a coat sleeve then associated with a woolen body.

5) Esprit british knitwear

Dries Van Noten plunges us into a world almost nostalgic by making the beautiful part knits, memories of the sweaters of our childhood.

With Fair Isles patterns, with green and red tartans, Dries Van Noten shed touches with British accents on the pieces in his collection.

Anaelle Coulon