Some collections celebrate beauty. Others unveil an entire universe. Ahead of its official launch in Paris this July, CHANEL offers a first glimpse into “Signes & Symboles”, the new High Jewelry collection that transforms the Maison’s most iconic codes into a narrative woven from memory, light and mystery — where every jewel becomes a symbol to wear.
The new collection is born from the encounter of four emblems deeply tied to Gabrielle Chanel’s imagination: the camellia, the star, the sun and the lion. Distinctive motifs that shaped the designer’s life — from the atmosphere of Aubazine Abbey to the radiant Mediterranean light — gradually becoming essential elements of her aesthetic language.
Through 85 High Jewelry creations, the CHANEL Jewelry Creation Studio unveils a collection that feels both theatrical and contemporary, where rigorous geometry and opulent volumes coexist in perfect balance. Plastron necklaces, sculptural rings, brooches and talisman-inspired pieces engage in a sophisticated dialogue between symmetry, materiality and color.
Color as a Signature
In “Signes & Symboles”, color is not merely decorative — it becomes a creative language. The palette unfolds through bold contrasts and luminous harmonies, where rubies, emeralds, sapphires, diamonds and ornamental stones shape a vibrant and refined aesthetic.
Deep blues, intense greens, incandescent reds and golden tones coexist with softer shades such as pink, expressed through pink sapphires and spinels that infuse the pieces with warmth and radiance. Alongside precious gemstones, materials such as onyx, turquoise, carnelian, chrysoprase and black or white ceramic amplify the interplay of contrasts and transparencies.
The result is a rich chromatic composition capable of balancing graphic strength with visual lightness. Yellow, white and pink gold interact to create multiple reflections, while the alternation between matte surfaces and brilliant details gives depth and movement to every creation.
The Lion, the Star and the Camellia
Among the collection’s leading symbols, the lion emerges as a powerful protagonist. Gabrielle Chanel’s astrological sign and now a central emblem within the Maison’s High Jewelry universe, it appears sculpted in diamonds and onyx through an aesthetic inspired by ancient bas-reliefs.
Alongside the lion, the star and the camellia evolve into repeating graphic motifs, almost like precious embroidery. Geometric lines are illuminated by cascades of brilliant-cut, emerald-cut and baguette-cut diamonds, while colored gemstones introduce vibrant accents that heighten the theatrical allure of the compositions.
Particularly evocative are the talisman jewels, conceived as contemporary amulets. Necklaces and rings become symbolic objects to preserve and interpret, perfectly reflecting Gabrielle Chanel’s almost mystical relationship with signs, numbers and symbols.
Timeless Elegance
“Signes & Symboles” represents a perfect synthesis of heritage and innovation. The collection revisits the fascination of classical ornamentation and ancient cultures, reinterpreting them through a modern, sophisticated and essential language.
Each creation appears suspended between past and present: a refined balance between opulence and restraint, spontaneity and artisanal precision. It is precisely within this duality that CHANEL continues to define its vision of High Jewelry — free, audacious and deeply distinctive.
With “Signes & Symboles”, the Maison celebrates not only jewelry as a precious object, but the enduring power of symbols themselves — timeless signs capable of transforming into emotion, style and memory.
