Now joining the lineSport Collection, the Chronomètre Furtif takes us back to the fundamentals: having the time for yourself alone. While the unique “Chronomètre Furtif Bleu” Only Watch 2024 piece was the first in the world to feature a Tantalum case and bracelet, the small production run of the Chronomètre Furtif has been designed by François-Paul Journe to have a 42 mm case and bracelet made from Tungsten Carbide (interspersed with Tantalum elements).

It is an extremely hard material (approximately 1350 Vickers and 9 on the Mohs scale, which is close to the hardness of corundums such as sapphire), obtained by combining carbon and tungsten at high temperatures; it is double the density of steel, and almost as dense as gold. Usually used for highly technical applications, it is the perfect option as, in addition to its biocompatibility and low chemical reactivity, it is highly shock-resistant and practically indestructible.

A Dense, Time-Resistant Case
For the design of each of the elements which make up the exterior of this 42 mm timepiece, which is just 9.5 mm thick, the Manufacture was able to rely on the expertise of Les Boîtiers de Genève, a specialist entity owned by F.P.Journe, integrated since 2012, and with workshops located in Meyrin on the outskirts of Geneva. Perfect mastery of the machining process was essential for tackling a project as audacious as this, as the work is wholly unlike turning components made from steel, titanium or even tantalum, which itself is highly complex to work due to its inherent properties. This is the metal the Manufacture employed for the one-off “Chronomètre Furtif Bleu” piece. Creating the entire exterior from Tungsten Carbide required access to the latest generation of tooling.

Les Boîtiers de Genève boasts a cutting-edge machine park, used to the best of its capacities through complex and innovative processes, allowing them to push the limits of engineering in terms of machining and finishes. As François-Paul Journe explained when speaking about this new timepiece: “I designed the case and we worked with the Manufacture’s design office on its general internal and external dimensions with a view to integrating the calibre.” Then, the engineers and machinists working for Les Boîtiers de Genève, to whom F.P.Journe gives great lat- itude, were responsible for reworking the entire case middle. They were in charge of the sand-blasted and polished finishes. The same process obviously applied to the bracelet that these specialists developed from the model designed by the F.P.Journe Manufacture’s founder.

Thanks to their mastery in working demanding metals, these ultra-specialist craftsmen have successfully overcome the chal- lenge of designing a flat three-row link, also made entirely from Tungsten Carbide.

In order to do justice to this exceptional casing, F.P.Journe opted to bestow this new watch with a mirror-polished anthracite grey Grand Feu enamel on white Gold dial, designed in the same spirit as the one adorning the unique piece sold at the Only Watch 2024 auction. This fired disc reflects the expertise and creativity possessed by the artists working within Les Cadraniers de Genève, a hub of expert craftsmen owned by F.P.Journe, which shares its building and cutting-edge technology with Les Boîtiers de Genève. In the workshops, the combined technical and artistic skills allow the level of aesthetic perfection required for such a timekeeping instru- ment to be achieved. It can be found in all stages of production, from the different layers of powdered enamel to the polishing, separated by numerous firing stages in a kiln heated to over 800°C (1472°F).

These high-risk operations are managed perfectly, but this does not prevent accidents from occasionally happening during production. The colour may not be strictly uniform due to unwanted movements of air in the kiln. The disc may suffer a tiny deformation if the counter enamel is not applied uniformly or is not thick enough. The vitrified surface may crack during the final polishing, or shatter if cooled too quickly once the dial is removed from the kiln, or because of an impurity in the material. Once the inspection of the discs which have passed through these complex trials is complete, their numerals and discreet minute tracks are engraved with a laser. These are elements that only the owners of this watch will be able to see by altering the angle of the dial against the light. Then, the understated elongated teardrop hands are attached; these are tinted in a very similar colour to the dial so that they appear to melt into its anthracite grey enamel surface. Lastly, running over the top of these two indicators, a long and lightweight second hand is meticulously driven in, here tinted white so that it forms an ultra-graphic point that draws the eye.

www.fpjourne.com