Like splashes of nail polish projected onto the dials of the J12… When Arnaud Chastaingt the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio Director is inspired by dripping art, the result is an exceptional watchmaking pentaptych; an ensemble of five pieces that together become one. In order to reproduce the drops of nail polish in Grand Feu enamel onto the ceramic dials of these five J12, the development teams had to carry out a hundred color tests. It took 200 hours of research to develop this highly accurate process for applying enamel to ceramics. Conceived as an art object, this set of J12 watches is showcased in a lacquered wooden box. The inside of the box mimics the splash pattern of the glossy drops to connect each watch to the other.
The multitude of colors developed by the color experts of CHANEL Beauty become a creative material and the dial and bezel of the J12 turns into a canvas. Drops of “nail polish” from different shades of pink, from beige to nearly red, have been sprayed, in the style of dripping art. This artistic movement consists in letting paint flow or drip or even spraying it onto canvases as started between 1947 and 1950 by the artist Jackson Pollock.
➢ The makeup at CHANEL: collections closely linked to fashion
Born in 1924, CHANEL makeup was developed in line with Gabrielle Chanel’s vision of fashion. Makeup was an essential for her as she believed it states the allure of a strong and confident woman.
GRAND FEU ENAMEL STEPS
1/THE SEARCH FOR ENAMEL COLOURS
When designing this collection of five J12, the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio aimed to create a harmonious gradient of colours, ranging from red to vivid pink and then to a softer, almost beige-toned pink. Only one challenge arose during this creative process — the complexity of enamel colouring. Unpredictable by nature, enamel requires precise preparation, balancing the selection of pigments with the firing duration to achieve the desired hue. The development teams enlisted the expertise of a materials science specialist, who conducted over 100 tests before identifying the ideal composition to bring this seamless colour palette to life.
Based on the sketches and references provided by the Creation Studio, this research aims to capture the intensity, softness, and contrast of the various shades of CHANEL nail polish.
This palette embodies the harmony of colours sought by the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio, transitioning from red to vivid pink and finally to a delicate, almost beige pink.
GRAND FEU ENAMEL STEPS
2/ENAMEL APPLICATION AND FIRING
To complement the deep black of the straps, the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio selected black ceramic as the base for the dial and bezel of these J12 models. A true technical challenge for the development teams, two months of research were required to determine the process that would prevent the enamel from cracking during firing.
Echoing the droplets of CHANEL nail polish, each motif of the design was first traced with a laser before the artisans applied the enamel using the champlevé technique. This intricate process, carried out by hand with an ultra-fine brush, demands an exceptional level of precision. Several rounds of firing at 800°C are necessary to achieve the colour and texture envisioned by the Creation Studio.
Approximately 200 hours of research were required to determine the opti- mal enamel application processes for ceramic.
GRAND FEU ENAMEL STEPS
3/THE FINISHING TOUCHES
Requiring approximately 30 hours of meticulous craftsmanship, the dial and bezel’s design is revealed through the enamel’s raised relief and radiant shine, as if a droplet of nail polish had just been freshly applied.
Each colour forms a droplet, whose convex profile enhances the splash-like effect of a projected drop of nail polish.
J12 BOX “DRIPPING ART” Numbered and limited to 5 sets 5 J12 watches Black highly resistant ceramic case Sapphire crystal caseback with “N°X/5” numbering Steel with black coating and black ceramic fixed bezel with motif in Grand Feu enamel Black ceramic dial with motif in Grand Feu enamel Steel with black coating non-screw- down crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond (~0.16 carat) Black highly resistant ceramic bracelet and steel triple-folding buckle Caliber 12.1: self-winding manufacture movement, chronometer-certified by the COSC*, with black coating Power reserve: ~70 hours Functions: hours, minutes, seconds Water-resistance: 50 meters Diameter: 38 mm Diamonds: 5 brilliant- cut diamonds (~0.8 carat) Carats and materials are indication only. The values are non-binding.
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