Dior Haute Couture SS25

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Dior Haute Couture SS25

The Dior spring-summer 2025 haute couture collection thought up by Maria Grazia Chiuri is an opportunity to reawaken essential themes pertaining to sartorial memory...
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The Dior spring-summer2025 haute couture collection thought up by Maria Grazia Chiuri is an opportunityto reawaken essential themes pertaining to sartorial memory – in particular the creativity of previouscenturies – and to disrupt the order of time, taking us back to a dimension that belongs neither to past norfuture, but to fashion itself and the idea of transformation associated with it.In this temporal paradox, Maria Grazia Chiuri moves in total freedom, as if the mirrors that fill the couturestudio could, similar to Alice’s looking glass, allow access to another reality, dominated by constant mutationsofmeaning.

A reality that would grant this fashion dream, without everhaving to relinquish astonishmentor irreverence, and which would have the power to metamorphose shapes and emotions. The CreativeDirectordraws her inspiration notably from theTrapèzeline conceived forDior in 1958 by the young YvesSaint Laurent. The collection thereafter becomes a series of unpredictable encounters in wonderland, wherethe hereandnowcontinually play hide-and-seek, as if an ever-evolving being were discovering througheach movement – during this constantly-changing time of fashion – recompositions as fleeting as they arefantastic. The lace-trimmed tulle culottes, for instance, are the buried memory of a child-woman capable ofcrossing as many boundaries as she wishes, adapting the world to her scale: immense or tiny.In this interplay ofcontrasts, she can be a flower-woman, in a cape of petals or in a short dress showing offthe corolla ofa curvy bust, ora bird-woman and accomplice to the headpiece that exposes a punk mohicanreaching for the sky.

The crinoline, in its modern, practicalversion, proves to be an extraordinary breeding ground for memories,yielding to the most excessive fantasies and motifs. This shaken cage concealing its construction disclosesthreads that stretch and undulate with every movement, like embroidered branches. Simply hiding itsstructure, the underwiring enhances light blouses sublimated by floral embroidery. The visible bustiers anddraped skirts are unforgettable. TheCigalesilhouette – designed by MonsieurDiorfor the autumn-winter1952-1953 haute couture line – is reproposed here in the original moiré fabrics, adopted for a little skirtpaired with a fitted tailcoat, accentuating the contrasting proportions. The cape is embellished with feathersdelicately crafted in organza.Black, both sober and superb, magnifies the coats, which orchestrate and underline the choreography ofminute motions. The long dress shines supremely with its three-dimensional burnished silver embroidery, atthe heart of a poetics of the absurd. It seems suspended in the perpetualtemporality of fashion, the essenceof which is to fulfil desires of all kinds.

For the Dior Spring/Summer 2025 haute couture collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri invited Rithika Merchant to design an installation consisting of nine paintings. Transformed into textile works by Karishma Swali, the Chanakya workshops and the Chanakya School of Craft, these works compose an immersive visual landscape that weaves together stories of women across generations.

Reflecting Maria Grazia Chiuri and the house of Dior’s commitment to promoting female artists from around the world, this unique collective creation is unveiled during the Dior fashion show in the garden of the Musée Rodin. The public will be able to discover it, after the show, for five days – from January 28 to February 2, 2025 –, during an exhibition open to all. Originally from Mumbai, Rithika Merchant collects the stories of her ancestors – on her mother’s side – in the Kerala region.

“Seeds sown in the past bloom in the present,” she emphasizes, highlighting the unbroken narratives of a long line of matriarchs. Enriched by her aesthetic vocabulary, guided by the study of botanical drawings, her works in gouache, watercolor, and ink on paper bring to life a landscape punctuated by universal symbols, floral motifs, and organic forms. Drawing on multiple literary and mythological sources, she crafts a narrative that is rooted in the past while pointing to an optimistic future, celebrating the strength, energy, and joy of women. For this installation, Karishma Swali, Chanakya master artisans, and graduate students from the Chanakya School of Craft interpreted her work through a variety of stitches, colors, and materials. Emblem of artistic interdisciplinarity, the transposition of Rithika Merchant’s universe into a monumental creation combines excellent know-how and virtuoso craftsmanship to offer a striking visual experience.

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