The Spring/Summer 2025 Miu Miu show by Miuccia Prada is a point of embarkation, for a sequence of multidisciplinary events examining the brand’s cultural dialogues with groundbreaking women artists and filmmakers across 13 years. Through the Spring/Summer 2025 collection itself, an intervention by Goshka Macuga for the Miu Miu runway show, and an installation by the same artist at the Palais d’Iena as part of Art Basel Paris 2024 exploring Miu Miu Women’s Tales and collaborations with artists, Miu Miu investigates its own conversations across the mediums of art, cinema and fashion. Since its inception, the scope of this exchange has been to investigate the experience of vanity, to analyze how women see themselves, through their own gaze.
Vanity and deceit connect. As part of her artistic intervention, Goshka Macuga produces The Truthless Times,’ a physical newspaper whose production is reflected in a narrative film short, both exploring ideas of truth, misinformation and manipulation. The audience is seated within a representation of printing presses – machinery of information, presumed fact – the plurality of elements within the space both proffering tools to dissect and decipher the concept of truth, and underscoring the profusion of information that characterizes contemporary reality.
If Fall/Winter 2024 proposed a vocabulary of clothing across a panorama of lived experience the Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2025 collection evolves to examine early youth as a period of absolute truth. Before dissimulation is learned, each individual is honest to themselves, to their ideals. And as a reaction to an era of overstimulation and over-information, simplicity in clothing may offer clarity and precision, and serve as an honest frame of character.
A white cotton dress is a starting point. Pieces drawn directly from wardrobes of ‘infancy’ are prototypical items, pure in form and role. A collaboration between Miu Miu and Petit Bateau reimagines their classic pieces for different ages.
Unschooled gestures in dressing fundamentally alter classic items, as if purpose is rediscovered. Integrity remains intact. Chemisette dresses in cotton are pulled down and folded around the body, their forms shifted, from utilitarian to bustier dresses with a dishonest glamour. Sweaters are wrapped into tops, shirts twisted – wrong ways of wearing, to find something new.
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