The Beauty of Paper From plants and water, the abundance of nature, A piece of paper is handmade. Light, soft, enveloping: Touching it gives a sense of grounding. It reflects light as it absorbs it: Its color conveys a feeling of purity. A part of our daily lives since the distant past, It fills our minds and empowers us, Thanks to its poetry that seems to be timeless, Around us, paper is omnipresent. All we have to do is feel it.
Presented on Friday, September 27 at the Parc Floral in Paris, the ISSEY MIYAKE SS25 collection “The Beauty of Paper” is a research on paper – a ubiquitous material in our daily lives – including washi (traditional Japanese paper), to explore not only its material characteristics but also the sensations it evokes.
What is it about paper that makes us feel so comfortable? Starting from this question, the research and development of the collection focused on the history, making and craftsmanship of paper. The discoveries inspired the materials, techniques and design through various experimental tailoring studies. The resulting dresses honor the work of the artisans with a variety of textures. They communicate the qualities and poetry of paper, relevant today and at the same time evocative of a primitive past.
To illustrate the history of paper production, the collection features a series of kamiko (washi dresses) made from 100% hemp fibers. Initially prototypes during research, they represent the brand’s intention to continue the practice of this historic craft technique that has existed in Japan for more than ten centuries, now in the form of clothes with an original design.
Further application of the research, the stools used as seats during the fashion show are made from compressed paper sheet cylinders – previously used for ISSEY MIYAKE’s pleating process. The cylinders, easy to recycle, were cut at the right height to be seats. The marbling of the central part recalls the rings found inside a tree trunk, suggesting the passage of time.
Inspired by water and the concept of a piece of cloth, the EAU series is designed in soft, transparent fabric, fixed on the inside to create drape. The movement and folds of this fabric are reminiscent of the flow of water and its shimmer.
The pieces in the FOLD TO FORM series feature a three-dimensional design, like a box or origami, made from a material that is the brand’s latest development in the use of washi fabric. The yarns produced from washi flakes and rayon-silk are woven with stretch yarns; the result is a material that retains great elasticity but acquires greater lightness, giving the angular silhouette of the clothes the flexibility to adapt to the body of the wearer.
EASE AND EASED is a series that replicates the design of kamiko illustrating the concept of the collection. A hemp yarn is used for the warp, a mohair blend and wool for the weft. The subtle color variation of the yarn emphasizes the warmth and materiality of the texture. The silhouette takes advantage of the way the fabric falls and adapts to the body, light and airy, designed to be able to be flattened like paper.
The HEMPEN series is made entirely of hemp, which has been used since ancient times as a raw material for paper and clothing, essential to people’s lives. The fabric is dyed and then coated to be functional and suitable for today’s everyday life while retaining its natural lightness and comfort.
WEAR AND WORN is based on the idea of joining two garments, a challenge made possible by seamless knitting technology. The design is a combination of technology and playfulness. By passing the body through one of the two garments, or by reversing the front and back, the wearer can have fun in various ways. The use of cotton-polyester yarn gives it a light and soft texture.
PRESSED FLORA features delicate prints of spring peonies, ranunculus and asparagus leaves. The pattern recalls the color and texture variation that occurs when fresh flowers are pressed. The pressing process applied to the clothes accidentally creates small creases in the fabric, emphasizing the fragility of the flowers and the material.
The CLOTH AND CORD series is characterized by a structure obtained using whole pieces of fabric, which gives it a primitive look. This rawness is complemented by cotton rope ties that enhance the craftsmanship. Linen yarn and stretch yarn are intertwined to obtain a flexible material with a light texture. The fabric is then gathered and tied with cotton ropes creating the drape, for a more relaxed silhouette.
SHADE AND SHADED is a series characterized by a sheer fabric, folded diagonally and partially pleated, creating a contrast between the transparency of the washi paper and the sharpness of the pleats. It is structured but sensual.
PAPER BAG is inspired by common paper bags, both in shape and construction. The bags are made by pressing a fabric that holds its shape when woven with yarns made from washi flakes, to give them the texture and lightness of paper and the resistance needed for everyday use.
Comments are off this post!