di Gioia Gange
The silence of the mountains seems to stop the time but the beat goes on. Karl Lagerfeld closes his legendary creative journey with the most exciting show ever during the #parisfashionweek. Cara Delevigne opens as a tribute to the catwalk, the sound of carillon makes it all the more magical and the emotion does not take long to appear on the faces of Penelope Cruz she too among the models of the collection fw19 with a white Camelia. A minute of silence opens the show and then an epic finale to the notes of Hero by David Bowie. The collection is authentic, vigorous, modern to accompany the most beautiful and long-lasting partnership of the fashion world. Karl will miss us a lot but Virginie Viard already knows how to best interpret the creative legacy of the fashion house in the lively use of the fuxia and green color block, in the fluidity of the licra printed with ski details. Today on the catwalk has returned the emotion, the real one, the one that was missing for a long time … full of humanity not only ephemeral and digital and this is the greatest creative transformation we wish to the Chanel maison.
Il silenzio delle montagne sembra fermare il tempo ma “the beat goes on”. Karl Lagerfeld chiude il suo leggendario percorso creativo con lo show più emozionante di sempre durante la #parisfashionweek. Cara Delevigne apre come tributo la passerella, il suono di carillon rende il tutto più magico e la commozione non tarda a comparire sui volti di Penelope Cruz anche lei tra le uscite della collezione fw19 con una rosa bianca. Un minuto di silenzio apre lo show e poi un finale epico sulle note di Hero di David Bowie. La collezione è autentica , vigorosa , moderna ad accompagnare il più bel e duraturo sodalizio del mondo della moda . Karl ci mancherà molto ma Virginie Viard sa già interpretare al meglio l’eredità creativa della maison nel vivissimo uso del color block fuxia e green, nella fluidità della licra stampata con dettagli ski. Oggi nella passerella è tornata l’emozione, quella vera, quella che mancava da tempo…piena di umanità non solo effimera e digitale e questa è la maggiore trasformazione creativa che auguriamo alla maison Chanel.
Details of Collection:
With houndstooth, tartan and big check motifs, a dusting of snowflakes, in chevrons or imitating astrakhan, top stitched and quilted, tweed displays its masculinity on suits with wide-cut trousers worn high at the waist, coupled with great overcoats. Fastened with a high collar or a shawl collar and mini cape, enhanced with a trompe-l’œil bolero or a faux fur lapel, sometimes embellished with martingales, straight or double-breasted, trapeze or belted, maxi pockets slit or buttoned and folded down, the coats are different every time.
The tweed jackets are trimmed with a thick wool braid, woven or left almost raw. Others reveal a flared collar and a trompe-l’œil bolero. The big soft knit pullovers alternate with sweaters embroidered with crystals and cardigans with mountain motifs. Ski outfits are mixed with urban wear: a down jacket is sported with wide-cut trousers in big check tweed, while a zip-up ski-suit comes in tri-colour tweed. Braided or adorned with a patch pocket to slip in a ski-pass, little tweed jackets are combined with a pencil skirt, and an outfit of over-jacket and wide-cut trousers in leather.
Knitted scarves in embroidered chiffon worn against bare skin, big blouses with jabots, sautoir necklaces of chains and glass beads, plastron necklaces and white pearl earrings … there’s a great softness about the collection. The desire for sophisticated comfort emanates from the silhouettes. A very feminine delicacy escapes from these maxi enveloping volumes. It flows over second skin tops, skirts and dresses in white chiffon printed with mini skiers and CC chairlifts, with scalloped collars and flounces that float to the rhythm of the body’s movements. Romanticism abounds with the great capes in wool, the dresses with Claudine collars and tiers of rounded panels, the skirts in snowy guipure lace and the white tuxedos in duchess satin. Finally, the “snow-ball” skirts and dresses in chiffon and feathers with the bust embroidered with snowflakes in white and gold vinyl, distil the modernity, youth and dash of humour that characterise the CHANEL woman.
The bags match the tones of a season in the mountains: in black or white smooth quilted leather, supple in quilted tweed with a double C clasp interlaced with leather, a flap in faux fur or a camera case in braided shearling. Removable purses are attached to small bags with shoulder straps. Hip bags in faux fur or leather embroidered with glossy camellias alternate with gondola lift minaudières in rhinestoned resin. The emblematic bags of the House joyfully slalom between the chalet spirit for the CHANEL’s GABRIELLE bag in leather and fluffy checked tweed, a frosted inspiration for the 11.12 embroidered with sequins, and its all schuss energy for the 2.55 in neon orange quilted leather.