On October 26, the venue of MBFW Russia moved to the Museum of Moscow, where the new generation of Moscow fashion designers showcased their collections. The display and presentation of the nineteen young designers and artists were organized by the Museum of Fashion and Museum of Moscow with a support of the Moscow Department of Culture.The presentation of young designers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week has become the starting point in the long-term development program of the project.
The presentation of young designers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week has become the starting point in the long-term development program of the project. Vladimir Filippov, Deputy Head of Moscow Department of Culture has attended the opening ceremony.
The theme of the collection – love through hatred. The corner featured customized bike with ADORE inscription. The fashion show displayed military jacket and black pants with silvery pins; striped jersey jacket, sports pants made of red and blue satin. MUAH: bright shadows. Plaits.
The major principle of the collection was enlarged details in one-size garments. The project united oversize clothing and intentionally enlarged elements borrowed from the vintage attire. During the show, models wearing diverse items in pastel shades and slippers, looking very home-like, were performing different actions: for instance, one was pulling herself up the chair, one was in bed, another was ripping off rose petals, next one was attentively looking at the ring and one was taking off the slippers.
Great in ordinary style: yellow, emerald, and black coats were on display in the corner of the brand. On the catwalk models demonstrated bombers, jumpsuits, long-sleeves, cropped jackets and coats made of black, grey and trendy red neoprene. Round-shaped cross-body bags and loose backpacks with faces completed the collection performed in supremacism colors.
The installation corner was filled with contemporary art vibes; models demonstrated complexly cut felt coats. The collection featured minimum details; rough edges underlined elegance and delicacy.
The color palette of the collection EASY OR NOT TO BE YOUNG was limited by two colors: white emphasized tender and frank ideas while red stood for aggression and independence. The models hit the runway playing scenes from their ‘younger’ age: poured liquid nitrogen right on the catwalk, drank beer, did their laundry, kissed and screamed at top of their voices.
Young Russian brand was established by students of Moscow State University of Design and Technology – Anna Koroleva and Alya Zakaryan. Collection DOUBLEASTUDIO featured unconventional, contrast color and texture combinations; tender femininity on the verge of extraordinary avant-garde solutions in costume design. Creamy lengthy coats and raincoats with headscarves, asymmetric violet, dark-blue and beige skirts, high vent dresses, and multicolored fur coats were displayed for women and mono-colored pants with striped jackets, a grey coat, and a trench – for men.
Fashion from Cloudburst was a parade of technological male garments: anoraks, hoodies, practical black and grey pants. The red hoody is the real trend of the season. Aggressive face-art in line with the color palette of the collection and bare feet of models highlighted the extravagance of the looks.
The brand showcased sweatshirts with rude words openly mocking the mass market.
Precise and brief presentation from 21.12 allowed the guests to study all the details: models steadily walked the long runway; silvery insets glittered in the lights, classically cut jackets and trousers made no unneeded folds. Grey, electric, black, and coffee were colors of the collection along with 21.21 inscription on the back. The final look was V-neck jacket atop the silk milky maxi dress.
The designer of DAB brand is Darya Belousova, was graduated from the Design School of Higher School of Economics. The brand chose an unusual way to present the new collection: the first model walked the catwalk in a striped robe coat. Once she had reached middle point of the catwalk, she spread out a white sheet and rolled herself up. The following models wearing lengthy jackets, fringed skirt, oversize dresses and beige costume with multicolored stripes imitated the burial.
Lumiér Garson by Jean Rudoff
Presentation of the collection consisted of three parts: Gypsy, Oriental and African American theme. Nine models walked the runway. The designer offered light shorts with embroidery, T-shirts, straight jeans, jerseys, and sweaters for men; and summer dresses with asymmetric hems, a skirt with a jersey and high vent dress for girls. The color palette combined black, red, grey, beige and brown.
The new collection from Otocyon featured nature themes: flowers were the major decorative element, the designer scattered them on accessories as appliqués or under the belt (flowers on stems). Flounces, ruffles, silk, colored tights were trends of the season. Bright shadows and free curls were in line with collection’s theme. The fashion show was like the construction set: every look was the bearing element after the models had walked the runway, they all formed a motionless picture, the focus was on the hug of a girl in dark-blue chiffon dress and yellow hat with a girl in white dress and transparent hat adorned with flowers.
The collection that will be definitely picked up by street style in the next season. Tracksuits that take you back to 1990s are so in the mood of the brand and the time. The presentation featured T-shirts hanging on fencing mesh. The brand displayed new underground collection: dark color palette (black and violet) with single drops of white (over-the-knee boots) made classical items look aggressive. Protector sole, leather patent mule shoes, lacing, velvet, and mesh turned the significant part of the collection into sporty chic.
High ladder with a migrant worker at the top. The man has been playing the role of a cleaning man during the day and at night became the major character of the collection. Two others were choosing garments for a future night-out from the railing and changed right at the runway. This was a collection of uniform overalls and bright oilskin jackets to run from one rave party to another.
The presentation was a hip-hop on the head and dancing battle in the style of Street Dance. Russian brand of street fashion INNEDI was established less than a year ago. Designer Inna Dyachkova focuses on graffiti and hip-hop culture, prefers loose shapes and application of graffiti and tagging. Multicolored old-school tracksuits, rose patent leather costume with a T-shirt, white raincoats and black jersey with shorts were on a display.
This is a provocation! The collection featured transparent pants of oilskin fabric, male dress, and footwear on a huge platform. This was a mix of mint green, fuchsia, and dark-blue under the neon lights. Models danced and openly expressed their feelings. Extreme spike heels and platforms, Capron fabric bodies, elastic bands, mini dresses on he-models, silvery wigs, transparent helmet, fur-coat and strobing make-up – this was the provocative collection from MILKE.
The futuristic collection was demonstrated in a trend-in palette (black, white and fuchsia). It featured plastic cape with decorative fuchsia ribbons and black bodycon pants with cuts on knees; asymmetric neoprene top, meshed culottes, dark-blue Capron leggings. MUAH: bright shadows, glitter on hair.
The brand showcased unconventional cuts, a combination of fabrics and entirely new vision. The focus was made on sports style. The runway turned into a sport site: models stood in a crab position, played the ball and exercised with a hula-hoop while demonstrating yellow and blue jumpsuit, bright mesh pants, lengthy sweater with an asymmetric bottom and super short shorts. The looks were complimented by white and raspberry red sneakers.
Brand ALISA KUZEMBAEVA presented a corner during the day of emerging designers at MBFW Russia. This style balances on the edge of femininity and aggressive urbanism, featuring contrasting textures and non-trivial cuts. Such combination of barely compatible things seems to reflect the two poles of the designer’s education – Alisa graduated the design courses and got a Diploma in Architecture in Moscow, studying in London at the same time.
This brand has two product lines, the main one is ARUT MSCW, and the second one is BUTOVO. Under the first line, the designer creates looks for concerts and videos. The second is like the advertisement of Butovo, a well-known district in Moscow, the dream of street-stylers. Designer ARUT presented his clothes corner at MBFW Russia.
All the Scandinavian philosophy, minimalism and spirit of the North. The Moscow designers of this brand presented «the North-style» clothes, inspired by the appearance of the punk subculture in England. The difficult-to-pronounce name Fy:r means «Lighthouse» in Swedish. The brand designers believe that clothes should be laconic, sole-colored, and simply cut-out. In their collections, they use neither fur nor leather, as they don’t want to harm animals.