The contemporary Chinese attitude at MFW: Xu Zhi

Xu Zhi is a luxury London based Chinese label with a contemporary attitude to both aesthetic and craftsmanship. Founded in 2014, the approach from the start has been focused on simplicity through intricacy – projecting an unmistakable level of quality for both the trained and untrained eye.

With material innovation at the heart of every piece, Xu Zhi not only creates designs synonymous with the brand, but has also developed a construction technique unique to the atelier. This has resulted in niche and retail success – resonating in both European and Asian markets. As well as this, Xu Zhi continues to experiment with both material and technique – showcasing collections in London, Paris, Milan and China.

This season took much of its inspiration from the conceptual art piece ‘The Visitors’ by Ragnar Kjartansson which shows a great contrast of vulnerability versus strength.

Emotions, as it proves, can be translated into all media, and although they may appear to be falling apart, they are in fact held strongly together. Like ‘The Visitors’, Xu Zhi Autumn Winter 2017 collection is a play on the idea of individuals being physically apart but symbolically together – and the truth that as people we can be connected, whilst still being alone.

Loose fitting wool and chiffon are teamed alongside intelligently deconstructed tailoring and lengths of raw denim, all creating a relaxed, subtly feminine silhouette.

Exploring the studio technique of braiding yarn yet further from the previous season, the individual strands have been placed onto real hand-painted brushstroke templates in a gradient formation, as to create the illusion of the yarns being painted onto the garment. As well as making the pieces incredibly light, it has taken the concept of the house method to new heights of unique texture construction.

The technique is complimented by a gradual palette of camel, dark brown, black and navy – with a selection of jewel toned accents as well as pops of vibrant yellow, green and blue.

Xu Zhi is delighted to have been invited to show this season as part of the official schedule in Milan at the Armani/Teatro; supported by Giorgio Armani and Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.